Spiritual Help

Discussion in 'Knowledge of the Spirit' started by Georgek, May 16, 2019.

  1. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    We own so far five properties and one of our properties is in the middle of nowhere in a remote village.

    When we get older, we just want peace. Folks find that difficult to understand, but I cannot justify myself.
    I like to look at the stars at night and feel peace with God. The warm sunshine and the stillness of no one to bother me.

    As I enjoy being by myself.

    We moved to this village back in 2011 and my life had been made hell!
    I am not going to go into details here, but let us say the guy in question was a bit poorer at the end of it.

    To be honest, we are fed up with it and have put up for sale getting near the $1,000,000 mark.

    My spirit friends do not like him-nor do I...so I decided to build barriers around my property.

    Trouble is, that he is costing us a fortune in light bulbs. Bulbs that are meant to last nearly a life time blow withing minutes or hours when he passes near.

    Halogen will last for months, but when he gets near...perhaps straight away.

    A bit like 'The Green Mile' but without the explosions. LEDS which are meant to last up to many years, last perhaps a day?

    (you think I am joking don't you?)

    [​IMG]

    This is one quarter of my garden at peace.

    Now not at peace:-


    [​IMG]


    I began putting up my fence at the front for a total enclosure. He now has to walk along the pathway which I own up to the stone lion guardians. He only has the right to pass through here.

    [​IMG]
    My boarder is marked with red stone. I had placed bulk head lights to illuminate the front which are operated by a time switch and contain LEDS.

    The one on the extreme right of my fence is a recent one which I thought may help illuminate the pathway?

    So far I have had to replace TEN new bulbs in three days or more every time he walks past it.

    [​IMG]

    The wiring is in parallel and passes through the reinforced panels. Connections being absolutely tight and the bulbs from different suppliers.

    Don't believe me....I will show you.


    I will take a new bulb and mark it for you and then when it blows, I will show it had blown by placing it into another light socket.


    My spirit friends just do not like him or his wife but tell me, this si the place that I must be and will never move.

    It gets so bad with spirit warnings and devices activating in the house, that the estate agent who reviewed our property during activation tells me it has to be mentioned that the house is haunted.

    I told her that it is not......and that the activity will stop when I move out.

    George
     
  2. spacecase0

    spacecase0 earth human

    Messages:
    848
    have you tried the wide voltage range LED bulbs ?
    I know plenty of people that have had the issues you are having,
    it is usually a bad ground connection where the electric service is.
    and the wide voltage range LED lights do not burn out when this issue is happening.
    here is are 2 examples of ones that runs from 85V-265V
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7SP7MV/
    and here is the other link
    you are keeping them dry ?
    anyway, if you have solid electrical wiring, or bulbs that can take messed up power, ghosts and people that break that sort of thing by just being there can.t effect them as much.
     
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  3. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Hello spacecase0,

    Many thanks for your feedback.

    Perhaps you can elaborate on a 'bad ground connection' ?
    We did have the electric checked by an electrician who did not find any faults. Over here in the UK we have 240 Volts and one of the things put forward to me was, that my house is more or less in the middle of nowhere, as the sub-station is producing too much voltage. Reason being is that sub-stations cater for large neighbourhoods so as new houses are gradually built in the area, there is enough voltage from the sub-station. Meaning that instead of having 240 volts there is probably 255 volts going to my house which would gradually decrease as more houses are tapped off from that sub-station?

    Another electrician said that this was untrue and after measuring the voltage it was 240 volts.

    As for the Earth connections, we have outside lights and once whilst changing a bulb in the rain I got a bolt of electricity that felt like a quick buzz which tripped the circuit breaker.

    At our other house in Wollaton we did experience a buzz along the water taps as this was put down to bad wiring which was thus corrected. We never had any problems with bulbs though.

    Back in the mid 1960s a UFO blew our electrics after flying over our house. It took out both 50 amp cartridge fuses simultaneously giving a total pull of perhaps 240 X 120 of nearly 29Kw. The in line fuses in parallel remained intact but we had to get an electrician because these were underground fuses with a padlock to protect the sub-station.

    Many times the street lights and house would be left in total darkness and once the whole of Wollaton.
    We considered this normal because we wee used to it. When the UFO activity stopped we never had a power cut for about twenty years.
    It may interest you to work out what is happening here.......

    Listen to the static on the video at the house in the country. This happens when using my Iphone as well as my video camera.


    [​IMG]

    Going Back to the Lights

    The thing what puzzles me 'spacecase0' is that the original bulk lights have no problem with the LEDs and so far have lasted years. They are connected in parallel and use an adaptor to convert to a bayonet fit. The end one in question had been added later, as I thought it would be good manners to allow Robert to be able to see walking along our footpath.

    Cooper also has to walk along that path to get to his farm house and this is why I think the bulbs keeps blowing...lol

    I know that screw fittings tend to be bad for contacts and allow arcing which then cause transient voltages and spikes.
    The bulbs were screwed in very tight and working.

    The thing that I do not understand, is why are the other bulbs from the same batch alright?

    What i will do is to show you, as I will mark the base of the bulb and film it being fitted and we will see what happens.

    Most interesting to hear your feedback as I will continue to check for any obvious fault.

    Regards George

    :)
     
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  4. spacecase0

    spacecase0 earth human

    Messages:
    848
    if you are running on 240V power, a ground connection should not be part of the circuit, so no worries there. but if you are in the USA, this would be an issue.

    one thing that is of concern, and you hinted at it by what you said,
    are you turning off the power before installing the light bulbs ?
    the power flickering on and off as you install a bulb can easily break a CFL bulb.
    another thing you hinted at, are any of these lights run in series ? if so, quit doing that.(only use ones that run straight off the 240V)

    also, try turning off all your circuit breakers and then turning them back on. if you had one with a bad connection inside, sometimes this fixes it, and way more rare it breaks (showing you were the fault was),

    could be an intermittent connection in other places,
    a refrigerator (or other inductive load) will make a huge power spike if you disconnect it for just a moment.
    so check the plugs and power cords to your large appliance. look for visual clues of things not right, look for messed up spots on the copper on the connection points of the plugs and things like that.

    as far as why some bulbs fry and others do not,
    they are not all made the same, even when from the same production line,
    but this does show us that whatever is breaking them is likely not breaking them by a huge margin.

    do you have anyone that does welding on your power line near you ?
    note down the time of day when you get them failing
    and do you leave these lights on all the time ?

    the magnetic fields made by the UFOs is huge, not surprised at all that it wiped the fuses out.
    for whatever reason, some people can do the same thing.
    if this is what is happening, then get the LED bulbs that can take the highest voltage you can find and see how they fare.
    I know they make ones that will run on a range from 200V to 480V, but have not seen them lately.

    one of the ways you find the bulbs that do better with power surges when you don't know how they are made internally is to see how fast it takes them to turn on. the ones that are instant have no internal power supply and are easy to break with a power outage.
    the ones that take a bit of time, maybe 1/4 second to half second will have an internal power supply and are much more reliable.
    the LED lights that say they work with an electric dimming circuit very often have this better system.
     
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  5. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Hello 'spacecase0'



    I recollect switching on the power and wondering why the other bulk head lights were not working, only to realise that they had weakened and had their glass covers on in bright sunlight...lol As I recollect looking at the newly installed LED furthest away without having yet put back the glass cover. So that i could that it was working okay.


    Oooops...I apologise for that, as I meant they were connected in parallel. The actual lights are in series by which power is fed to each light in line...sorry:wub8:

    I took out the bulb and placed it into another light socket knowing taht it works okay. That bulb only very faintly glows 99% light loss

    I take the power from a separate power box, exclusively for the garage. This was a barn converted into a garage. I cheated by applying for a free hybrid power charger to be installed in the garage. The government is trying to get rid of toxic carbon emissions. They fitted a second power box with fuses.



    Not what I know off? I do have a stick welder but hardly use it.

    The interesting thing here, is that I feel that spirits are trying to tell me something? It is not really the case of not having the light. My analogy is to reason why the rest of the bulbs are okay but this one blows every time? This may cure the problem but there may be something at my peril by not knowing what they are trying to show me?
    I know this sounds daft but when you have the doorbell ringing in the still of night and my burglar alarm triggering when it is off, makes me concerned.

    I must admit that mot of my LEDs are cheap and cheerful and are not dimmable. However the ones I am now using are more expensive.

    BTW....I am having problems at RS Spares getting hold of the MPSW45A and MPSA64 transistors for the ion circuit. Will try Ebay.

    Many thanks for your valued support spacecase0......keep me informed

    Best regards

    George:)
     
  6. spacecase0

    spacecase0 earth human

    Messages:
    848
    if you put a good bulb in the place where it blows out, and you are getting it show up very dim,
    then you have a wiring issue somewhere.
    I get why you might want to leave it that way as a detector,
    but it is very likely why you are having bulbs break

    older transistors might be hard to find,
    if you look at the specifications, you might find some other one that is easy to get.
    potentially they have been replaced with other transistors that are easier to build and thus cost less and are likely easier to get.

    I am still trying to find the schematic for my ghost detector,
    might take me years to find, but will post it when I find it
     
  7. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Hello spacecase0,

    Many thanks for your post.

    What i will do, is show you and everyone else here exactly what happens by photographs and videos which you may find interesting?

    I am gonna look a bit foolish if the bulb does not blow.lol

    I understand what you mean by wiring but I do not think that is the case?
    Off to see my mum in a bit.
    She had been complaining about stomach ache for three days now, as care workers had gathered around her bed (and the financial unit of Social Services)
    She is better now, but it was like The Death of Festus two days ago! A true hypochondriac who had called the doctor over 3000 times in thirty years and has a clean bill of health with no medication at the age of 92

    It was like the echoing chamber of Dante's Den...the shouting. (thank God she has now lost her voice...ungodly):sad8:

    George
     
  8. pigfarmer

    pigfarmer tall, thin, irritable

    Messages:
    1,926
    Hi Georgek! Was just cruising ans saw this.

    If you have another electrician in I'd suggest the phrase 'loose neutral' which can account for symptoms like you described. Common. In the main panel it'll affect everything and be disturbing.

    The neutral is the grounded conductor and is intended to carry current in 120v branch circuits. The bare or green wire grounding only carries current in a fault. I'd have him or her fire up those lights and check the grounding conductor with an amp clamp. In the main panel the neutral and ground are bonded, often the white and bare wires are screwed down to the same bus. In sub panels like your garage they are not common, the neutrals are normally on a nonconductive standoff.

    Any branch circuit outside needs to be protected by a GFCI either as a special breaker in the panel or with a GFCI outlet. Most often the failure is at a connection point. The outlets can and do fail, and once in a while it isn't a 'click and its off'. I had one in my kitchen that worked perfectly until I pulled it out to put in a tile backsplash. It took a couple of days of my toaster doing weird s**t before I caught on and replaced it. You shouldn't tingle when you touch it, and if you do it's because it's finding a path to ground through your body and that's exactly what those GFCIs are there to protect against. They operate in the milliamp range for ground leaks.

    Voltages can vary. In North America single phase power for residences is the standard, for branch circuits we say 120v nominal but really it could be 110-125. Single phase line to line is 240v nominal, but if line to line nets 220v your dryer probably won't care.

    Slightly varying voltages generally (not universally) won't damage equipment. Motors do cause a spike on startup but that's usually something you might notice on an unprotected PC. Or a big commercial telephone system, in my experience. At most your light bulbs might wink until the motor's been on a few seconds. What can't vary is the utility frequency of 60Hz (I think it's 50Hz in your neighborhood). This isn't common but I saw it for myself. One leg to earth showed 60 cycles. The other showed something crazy like 100Hz. Popped my UPS and the power supply in my PC. Shortly thereafter the transformer on the pole at the end of my driveway burst into flames. A long shot and the only reason I know is I happen to have the right meter.

    upload_2019-5-18_13-44-23.jpeg


    Hope your Mom feels better.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
  9. pigfarmer

    pigfarmer tall, thin, irritable

    Messages:
    1,926
  10. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Hello pigfarmer,

    Many thanks for your detailed report.

    I know very little about house wiring as you know.

    I can understand the philosophy of the neutral connecting to the earth connection.
    Of course we have 240v as opposed to 120v and we probably draw less current?

    They say that it is the amps that kills you, but I am not sure which voltage is better to have?
    The garage of course works on a separate circuit to the main house lighting.

    I cannot remember whether I had originally set up the circuit with a dimmer switch?
    Think I had, because I was going to use standard 40 watt bulbs...then LEDs came out.

    What I understand about dimmer switches is that the decrease the frequency from our 50 hz to perhaps 25hz when dimming.
    Meaning that the switching from negative to positive is slowed down causing more flicker and a lower voltage.

    We are still not sure whether this device saves electricity as this was my aim. The switch is set to full power I believe but (correct me if I am wrong) this will not cause a lot of the older LEDs to dim?

    The thing that confuses me on this issue, is why the end light blows and not the the ones nearer to the socket?

    We had a couple of electricians 'round the house' To check the central heating boiler and also the hybrid car terminal.
    One said that our voltage may be up to 260v with living in a village and as more houses are built it will lower itself.

    According to my multi-meter it is indeed 240 volts AC output.

    The other thing that may be different to 120V American circuits is that we use three pin plugs for the mains as opposed to lighting wich just have two connections-live and neutral.

    We have the third pin grounded to earth which fixes on the chassis of the appliance. (ie a toaster) for
    the mains supply.

    Light circuits are normally double insulated. Whether this still requires the neutral to earth I do not know.

    Mum is a lot better thank you:). It is a bit worrying when she does not realise the consequence of not eating and problems with being sick. The care workers have a duty of care which could involve mum going into hospital.

    The concern here, is not going in...but coming back home. We are having problems with PoA and family at war as my brother had blocked it in fear of losing some of his inheritance as he rarely visits.

    She is starting to get Dementia and if you are wondering why I write a lot here, is to escape from her and leave Juilie to look after her. Half an hour a day is enough to drive me crazy. She has also developed Small Vein Disease from old age

    She was watching one of these wild life programs on TV and she felt pretty sure that some of these lizards and monkeys had escaped under her bed!

    Spent a good ten minutes pretending to look for them under her bed...lol

    George
     
  11. spacecase0

    spacecase0 earth human

    Messages:
    848
    if you have any dimmer circuits in there, then remove them.
    especially the ones that just cut the frequency in half,
    those kind are just a diode,
    so you get 25Hz pulsing DC
    not ideal for anything other than a standard incandescent bulb
     
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  12. pigfarmer

    pigfarmer tall, thin, irritable

    Messages:
    1,926
    Well, I guess you can call me 'old wire nuts'. I've done quite a bit of this stuff and deal with electricians regularly. Like most human endeavors some are good and some aren't. They still call the nitwit that graduates medical school dead last 'doctor.' You get the right contractor to dig into an odd problem then great, otherwise you're just going through the motions and making a boat payment or two for them. Rather than getting into the weeds on this I'd say that 'tingling' while you are using an electrical device is trouble you need to look at sooner rather than later and don't worry about the residents of the town, a welder or the wiring methods and practices. Hell, if we were local I'd be happy to have a look for you and we could knock back a couple of those fine cellar temp beers.

    That said - for what this is worth: older dimmers and newer LED lighting may not get along. You can use dimmers as long as they are rated for the bulbs you are using. With an older dimmer usually the fixtures won't dim properly - goes from dimming a bit to off. Worst case scenario is they flicker or the switch itself might even chatter. $20 will correct that. I've had musicians with studios and electrical engineers tell me that certain brands of LED lighting are electrically noisy - meaning they are picking it up on equipment the average homeowner doesn't have. Could be. Rarely they'll produce noise in the same range that the garage door opener remotes work on and screw them up, either not work at all or intermittently do odd things. I converted the whole house to LED lighting and it made a noticeable change in my monthly utility bill. Plus, they don't heat up the way the old incandescent do. More efficient and safer, in general.

    Elder care. Yeah, I get it. My wife and I cared for my aunt for several years after a stroke. Her two shitheel adult children were too busy talking about themselves and sniffing around for money to be concerned with her daily welfare. It's an art dealing with that sort of thing. You're a good egg to spend time looking under the bed.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. spacecase0

    spacecase0 earth human

    Messages:
    848
    you asked why it is the end light in a string that is blowing out
    thought about it for a while last night
    likely there is an intermittent short in the socket at the end of that line, and that short has made an intermittent open circuit somewhere before it.
     
  14. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Yep...I will do that.

    Thanks spacecase0

    George
     
  15. Georgek

    Georgek George

    Messages:
    487
    Thanks sir....We got that tingling sorted after we called an electrician. As you know, it feels like a buzz of small sparks as you move your hand across it. The 50 hz buz in my case.

    The only thing that I don't like about LEDs is that I can't see a bloody thing....lol! I loved these 100 what bulbs (heated the room up as well..lol) I am not sure if others get this problem, but after a while the lED light loses it's brilliance.

    What folks do not understand is that we do these things naturally...mainly because it is a relative that we love.

    Regards

    George
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. Rick Hunter

    Rick Hunter Noble

    Messages:
    543
    The guy who is causing the trouble: he is a living person, correct? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I just wanted to make sure. Ghosts who aren't happy with the new occupants of a place can certainly do stuff like this.
     

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